This blog is all about gardening, landscaping, flowers,lawn care, advice with a special focus on zones 8 through 10.
Wednesday, September 19, 2012
Awesome and easy greenhouses
A greenhouse (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
If you love gardening you're probably the type that would love to have your own greenhouse. Whether you love starting your own seeds or you need a designated space to work in, greenhouses are great places to do what you love best. Here are some great new ones currently out there in the market.
1. Gardman R687 4-Tier Mini Greenhouse
What I love about this is it is great for those working with limited space. I can see this being used indoors, on a back porch or even in a sun room. Super handy, super cute and under $40.00 Click on the image to check this one out.
2. Spring Gardener Gable Greenhouse
This green house is portable, inexpensive and great solution for those who do container gardening especially when there is an early frost and you need to protect your hanging baskets and container plants. At a cost of under $200.00 it can be a great green house for those just starting out with gardening. Click on the image to check it out.
3. Greenhouse 15'x7'x7' Arch LARGE Green Garden Hot House
Now this green house is definitely for the no frills gardener that has a big garden and needs the extra space to start those seedlings off early. With measurements of 15'X7'X7' it's big enough to house a lot of plants especially if you make good use of the vertical space this one allows for. This one is inexpensive to at under $130.00 click on the image to check it out.
Wednesday, June 27, 2012
Growing bigger tomatoes
A scanned red tomato, along with leaves and flowers. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
If you would like huge tomato plants you may be missing out on this handy little tip. Those living in the South know that having a large root base and plenty of warm sun and water produce big healthy tomato plants. Here's a great tip if you buy your tomatoes already started.
- If you purchase tomato plants that are already about 8 to 12 inches tall, strip all the leaves except for a few off of the top. Every leaf you remove will form a root which will create a huge root system on a young plant. The bigger the root system, the bigger the plant, the more tomatoes you'll yield.
- On a raised bed dig a hole big enough to accommodate your tomato plant. Remove your plant from its container and if the plant is root bound loosen by hand the roots at the base.
- If you want to ensure better root production, you can apply rooting hormone to your plant prior to placing into the ground.
- Lay your tomato plant down sideways, yes, side ways and cover with a few inches of soil and compost leaving an inch or two below the cluster of top foliage. Do not bury too deep the warmth from the sun and quick absorption of water will help promote root production faster.
- At the neck of the plant just below the cluster of leaves at the top, wrap a 3-4 inch piece of newspaper around the plant. This will protect the plant from pests since it is the only part exposed.This will help prevent tomato cut worms from feasting on your newly planted tomato bush.
Monday, June 18, 2012
How to attract more butterflies to your garden
© Dawn Gagnon Photography 2013 |
Butterflies are lovely little garden visitors that help pollinate your flowers and vegetables. Attracting them to your garden is easy if you plant plenty of flowers they love and follow a few simple tips. South Carolina is home to many varieties of wild flowers and butterflies. See this list below to attract them to your garden.
- Avoid using too much pesticides. Even though we love butterflies they are an insect and as such are vulnerable to the same pesticides all insects are. Use natural and organic means of pest control when possible and be mindful of those that kill caterpillars.
- Plant flowering shrubs, trees and vegetables in groups to help bees and butterflies pollinate easily. This also creates a grand impact visually as well.
- Allow for some naturally blooming wild areas in your garden. While you may not think it an attractive area of the garden, you can always add to a wild section of a yard by adding additional wild flowers to it. Butterflies in particular need an undisturbed area to make nests for a butterfly friendly environment to flourish. If needed, add butterfly houses to your garden area.
- Flowers that produce great quantities of nectar are more likely to have your garden teaming with butterflies. Flowers such as Peacock Butterfly Bush, Coreopsis, Asters, Phlox and many others are especially attractive to butterflies.
- Have a decorative dish with damp, water logged soil in the garden. Be sure to keep it damp with water as butterflies will drink from this. They do not drink from standing water.
- Lovely rocks and garden sculptures in the garden make ideal places for butterflies to rest. An added bonus to attracting butterflies is that in most cases the same things attract hummingbirds as well.
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Friday, May 25, 2012
How to build a bird feeder/plant hanger
Getting the most out of your focal point requires a little imagination and ingenuity. Adding function to an otherwise decorative item makes it even more valuable. Birds will love this beautiful feeding station, and you'll love how lovely this plant hanger is for a focal point in the yard.
Items you'll need:
* 1 rounded shovel
* 1 level
* 1 metal bird feeder, we used a lantern style
* 1 4X4 pressure treated post
* 1 bag of ready mix cement
* Phillips head screw driver
* 4-6 plant hangers with their hardware for attaching to post
* 1 pint of paint (optional and your color choice, stain can also be an option)
* 4-6 hanging flower baskets
* birdseed
Pick a spot in your yard or garden that you want to be a focal point. Make sure you have easy access to it though, because you will need to fill the bird feeder on occasion.
Dig a hole 2 feet deep into the ground. Place two feet of your post or more if you like it lower, into the ground. Pack some dirt around the sides to stabilize and have someone hold it for you. Make sure to use your level on all sides so that it is perfectly straight.
Add one bag of Ready mix cement into the hole.
Fill the hole with water. Let the post set for 5-6 hours. Once cement hardens, cover the hole completely with any remaining dirt.
Now attach your Lantern style bird feeder to the top by drilling holes and securing with the screws that come with your bird feeder.
Paint or stain your post in any color you desire and allow to dry. This time will vary depending on weather conditions/humidity..etc.
Once your post is dry, you are now ready to attach your plant hangers. I put mine at varying levels to showcase the hanging baskets that I wanted.
This is a long term beautiful focal point for any area of your yard that needs a little something extra.
Please note:
* Bird seed will fall into your hanging baskets so keep an eye on the grass that sprouts in your baskets.
* You can also hang wind chimes and birdhouses from this post just primarily for decorative looks.
* Try planting a climbing rose at the base, or a Mandevilla vine to train up the post for an even more dramatic effect.
Thursday, May 10, 2012
Weed remedies that use no poison
Dandelion (Photo credit: Dawn Gagnon)
If you're like me, you really hate to use any chemical in your yard. You never know what kind of an impact it can have on your lawn, other plants, pets or even ground water. If there are gentler ways to rid ourselves of weeds, I am all for it. Here's a few suggestions:
1. Pour hot - near boiling water on the weed- This is an effective way to kill single isolated instances of weeds in your yard.
2. Pour a mixture of 1 part lemon juice to one part hot water on the weed.
3. Use salt mixed with hot water. Once cooled and salt has become diluted add to a spray bottle and spray entire weed with the solution. The ratio is 1/2 cup salt to 3 cups water.
4. Fill spray bottle with ordinary white household vinegar and spray weeds thoroughly.
5. As a weed preventative, some have had success using corn gluten meal. It is supposed to stop the weed seeds from germinating.
6. For really difficult weeds try a stronger vinegar solution currently called Weed Pharm. See Amazon link below. It actually has 20% more acetic acid than your regular household vinegar and is still safe for use.
Saturday, April 28, 2012
Friday, April 27, 2012
How to correctly prune your rose bushes
Photography by Dawn Gagnon
Roses are a beautiful addition to any garden but they do require some maintenance to keep them looking beautiful. Proper pruning and dead heading your roses is one part of the maintenance that must be done every season.
1. Prune your rose in early spring and once all danger of frost has past.
2. Make sure you have clean, sharp by-pass pruners and thick gloves. Some roses like the Joseph Coat are extremely thorny and can really cause a lot of damage to your hands and arms.
3. During the growing season, prune roses by looking for the first set of five leaves where you'll see a leaf bud. Prune just above this bud at a 45 degree angle that will assure the new growth will grow outward from the plant and not inward. This can be done as you dead head your roses.
4. Remove all dead and dying wood and any spindly canes that are less than the diameter of a pencil. Also look for sucker growth. These are canes that shoot out from the base of your plant under the main bud union. The main bud union is where all the main canes of the rose bush emerge from. Anything growing and shooting out from under this is a sucker and should be removed completely.
5. If you have a problem with cane borers, it is suggested that you can cover fresh pruning cuts with basic white school glue to prevent infestation.
6. Once roses go dormant for the year and have been exposed to several hard frosts, cut the rose down to one third of its original size and only leave three to four healthy canes for best results. Add a thick layer of fresh mulch.
1. Prune your rose in early spring and once all danger of frost has past.
2. Make sure you have clean, sharp by-pass pruners and thick gloves. Some roses like the Joseph Coat are extremely thorny and can really cause a lot of damage to your hands and arms.
3. During the growing season, prune roses by looking for the first set of five leaves where you'll see a leaf bud. Prune just above this bud at a 45 degree angle that will assure the new growth will grow outward from the plant and not inward. This can be done as you dead head your roses.
4. Remove all dead and dying wood and any spindly canes that are less than the diameter of a pencil. Also look for sucker growth. These are canes that shoot out from the base of your plant under the main bud union. The main bud union is where all the main canes of the rose bush emerge from. Anything growing and shooting out from under this is a sucker and should be removed completely.
5. If you have a problem with cane borers, it is suggested that you can cover fresh pruning cuts with basic white school glue to prevent infestation.
6. Once roses go dormant for the year and have been exposed to several hard frosts, cut the rose down to one third of its original size and only leave three to four healthy canes for best results. Add a thick layer of fresh mulch.
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